100 hats

it's destash time!

well, kind of. i'm not a very good de-stasher. like my grandmother, i feel it is necessary to keep EVERY little ball of yarn, and throwing them away seems like an awful thing to do. at the same time, i don't want to embarrass anyone by even thinking to include them in some sort of yarn swap. i also don't feel that donating 40 yards of what was originally a $1.99 skein of acrylic is any benefit to a thrift store. so! like i usually want to do, i figured i could come up with a project that would help me clear out my stash.

i recently went through a pretty awful depression and came out of it feeling like i need to focus way more on others than i do on myself. so, the 100 Hats project was born. i am going to knit/crochet 100 hats to give away to a charity, probably friends of pine ridge reservation.

i'm not setting myself a deadline, because lord knows with my slow hands that i'd never meet it, and i'm not going to cop out and just make 100 single-crochet hats. however, most of the knitted ones will probably be worked flat and seamed, just because my options for DPNs are limited.

i'm starting off with this hat. wish me luck!

since last i've written, we've moved! i'm now in the land of heat, which means my project patterns are probably going to change. unfortunately, it doesn't get cold enough here to wear winter clothing, but we can still appreciate lovely wraps, shawls and scarves. i'm getting my knit on for christmas, but that's about it. what do you knit for a desert rat?

(i know, i know. washcloths. lacy openwork stuff.)

i made this lovely scarf that will have a pattern up soon.

tofu cutie's charity mittens

finally, i have a pattern to post! this mitten pattern is worked flat with seams on the thumb and side. the stitch pattern and increases/decreases are modeled off of bev's 2-needle mittens knitting pattern, which i ADORE. i wanted a crochet pattern which would be more seamless to make. these work up quickly- i made a pair in a couple of hours. the pattern is written to be adjustable, so you can fiddle with it on your own. try increasing yarn and hook sizes to make a bigger mitten if you don't want to add rows. for this pattern, i used Red Heart Super Saver in "Aruba sea" and a size G hook.

A FEW NOTES
this pattern is intended for your own personal use and for use for charity. please do not sell this pattern or items made from it (exceptions would be use to make mittens for a charity crafts fair or event where the money will be donated to charity.)

for an even-looking hand, crochet in the "right side" loop of each row.

you may notice that as you increase for the thumb stitches the piece gets a little crowded and unwieldy. that's all right- this is how it should be, and will make for a good thumb.

PATTERN
Cuff
row 1: ch 9. sc in 2nd ch from hook and each sc across- 8 sc.
row 2: ch 1, turn. sc in back loop of each sc across- 8 sc.
repeat row 2 until there are 24 rows. if you want a wider cuff, add a few additional rows.

Hand
turn the work so you will be crocheting along the long edge of the cuff and sl st across to form base sts of hand. i got 26 stitches. you should have the equivalent or near-equivalent of how many rows you did. make sure the stitch count you get is an even number. if it is not, just add another sl st on the end or in the middle somewhere.

row 1: ch 1, turn. sc in same st. sc in each st across, 2 sc in last st.
row 2: ch 1, turn. this is a little tricky. take the number of sts in your row and subtract 2. then, divide the resulting number in half. this will get you the number of stitches that you will make on each side of the thumb. so, since i have 28 sts in this row, i subtract 2 (26) and divide by 2 (13). therefore, there will be 13 sts on each side of the thumb sts. for 30 sts it would be 14 sts, for 32 it would be 15 sts, etc.

once you have the number figured out, continue as follows (the (#) represents the number you got):

sc in each of next (#) sts. (for me, i would sc in each of the next 13 sts.) 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. sc in each of (#) remaining sts. (for me, i would sc in each of the remaining 13 sts.)

row 3: ch 1, turn. sc in each of next (#) sts. 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next (#) sts. see where i'm going with this?

row 4: ch 1, turn. sc in each of next (#) sts. 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next (#) sts.

row 5: ch 1, turn. sc in each of next (#) sts. 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next (#) sts.

row 6: ch 1, turn. sc in each of next (#) sts. 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next (number) sts.

note: 12 sts for the thumb is USUALLY enough. if you need a bigger thumb, i suggest continuing this pattern until there are 12 sts between each "2 sc". don't make it bigger than half the hand width, though, or you'll end up with an oven mitt!

Thumb
next row: ch 1, turn. sc in next (#) sts. sc in next 12 sts (more if you decide to make thumb wider- the number of stitches will be 4 + however many you had between each "2 sc". so if you did 2 sc, 12 sc, 2 sc, it would be 16 sc total, and you would sc in next 16 sts.)

ch 1, turn. sc in each of next 11 sc (12 thumb sts, or however many you have).

repeat last row 4 more times until there are 6 rows. if you want a longer thumb, add more rows.

next row: ch 1, turn. sc 2 tog across. you may have 1 extra st; just sc in it and turn.

TWO WAYS OF SEWING THUMB

1. cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight. leave long strand of yarn for sewing up thumb later. reattach yarn at NEXT st on base row and sc in each st across (13 sts or whatever # you have.)
2. insert needle from side of row opposite yarn and weave through remaining sts in row. yo with crochet hook and pull all sts through so you have a loop on hook and all sts are pulled tight. fold mitten in half and crochet 2 sides of thumb together (i prefer sl st). when you reach the base, continue with a sc in each st across (13 sts or whatever # you have.)

the first is a little more precise when it comes to stitching the thumb, but some find it to be messy to reattach the yarn. the second lets you continue uninterrupted, but can make the thumb a little smaller.

Hand (continued)
next row: ch 1, turn. Sc across each of next (# x 2) sts. since i had 13 sts on each side of the thumb, i crocheted across each of the next 26 sts.

repeat last row until there are 10 rows.

next row: ch 1, turn. * sc2tog across next 2 sts. sc in next 2 sts. repeat from * to end, sc in last st, turn.

next row: ch 1, turn. * sc2tog across next 2 sts. sc in next st. repeat from * to end, sc in last st, turn.

next row: sc2tog across, sc in last st, turn.

gather and sew up the edge of the mitten using one of the 2 ways provided above, and you're done!

if you find any errors in this pattern or have questions, please leave a comment and i'll get back to you!

crocheting for charity

a little while back i did a website to find items that accept crocheted/knitted items for charity. i found an abundance of websites for a variety of projects, and i'd like to dedicate this post to highlighting these charities. my monthly crochet for charity group on ravelry has already made a bunch of items to give to a few, but i am just astounded by the amount of charities that are out there. if you have a charity you'd like to have posted here, please PM me on ravelry (ikisstrees) or send me an email at buckleybones AT gmail DOT com.

• adopt-a-native-elder
• algerian action
• american angels
• angels for hope
• baby bear project
• barb's caring touch
• binky patrol
• blankets for canada
• blankets for deployed daddies
• blankets for the gulf
• bridge and beyond project
• BUMP mission
• bundles of love
• care wear
• chemo caps
• christmas at sea
• comforting special angels
• crocheting hearts
• dulaan project
• ellie's angels
• forever warm
• friends of pine ridge reservation
• from ewe to you
• gifts for the unborn
• hat box foundation
• hats for the homeless
• heartmade blessings
• heavenly angels in need
• hugs for homeless animals
• in-kind, inc
• knit with love
• knit-a-square
• knitting and giving
• knitting for noggins
• lilybugs
• lutheran world relief
• many arms reaching you
• mother bear project
• newborns in need
• pink slipper project
• planet blanket
• project linus
• project purl
• red scarf project
• shawl ministry
• ships project
• touching little lives
• warm up america

all right, i admit it

i'm a bad poster.

in fact i forgot about this blog entirely. it's only recently reading craftpassion that i've had a mind to start up again. but would you like to know why i don't post regularly? my canon 50D. yes, that's my excuse. my bad-ass camera.

it would be different if i could just click & upload with no issues, but whenever i take a picture i have to upload, edit and resize it, which on my poor little computer (which only has photoshop cs3 and wheezes every time i open the program) takes forever. so photographing projects has become a bit of a hassle.

here's what i'm working on currently:

1. tams aplenty
   
2. this shawl
3. a rag rug

it's hard to stay focused, since it's summer and i just got a whole gallon of yarn from my mom, and my brain is overrun with ideas. but i'm trying.

and i'm going to TRY to update here regularly. because i want to be a blog people read and get inspiration from.

Red Heart

For a very long time I was prejudiced against Red Heart yarn. I had it labeled as the domain of extremely poor people and grandmas. But recently I've been buying scads of it and I've had to change my tune, especially since I found out that if you wash the item you make in warm water with castile soap (i.e. Dr. Bronners) or shampoo, the sizing that makes the yarn stiff and scratchy will wash off, and the item will get softer. I have tried this several times with moderate success.

I'm not a total RedHeartophile- there is only so much my fingers can take- but I'm enjoying their color selection now that I am in the boonies and am too poor to buy from a LYS. Our Joann's is small and has a poor selection of yarn, so I find myself turning to Red Heart more and more often. We'll see how long this lasts.

There's a long thread on Ravelry about this that I've been following, and it's interesting to see the opinions.

old-fashioned triangle shawl

hello hip readers,
sorry for the long delay between posts. i've been crafting, but not as much as i would like. it's sort of got put on the back burner for a while while i got other things done.

i came across a great pattern in mother earth news for an old-fashioned triangle shawl. i've been looking for a pattern like this forever- ravelry doesn't have much in this department. i'm making one now. it's super easy and doesn't look as grannyish as you'd think. i'm planning on modifying the pattern to make a poncho for my next project.

here is the pattern itself. i'm copying it here because on the website it's kind of illegible in parts. it calls for worsted weight and an H hook; i'm using medium weight and a J hook myself and it seems to be going very quickly. if you wanted something thicker and tighter, i'd suggest following the pattern exactly; smaller hooks will mean smaller spaces between squares.

Materials:
12-oz. 4-ply, worsted weight yarn in desired colors
Size H aluminum crochet hook

Notes:
The chain 3 at the end of each row is also known as the turning chain. Always remember to count the chain 3 turning chain as your first double crochet of your next row. Example: At the end of the row, ch 3 (turning chain). Do 2 dc in the same space as ch 3 (turning ch). Now you have (ch 3, dc, dc) which equals 3 dc.

Shell:
Working (3dc, ch 1, 3dc) all in the same space makes a shell which gives you an increase at the center. This gives you the point of your shawl.

Starting at center neck (straight edge), ch 6.

Row 1: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 ch, 3 dc in last ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 2: 2 dc in first dc, ch 1, shell of (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in top of turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: 2 dc in first dc, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, shell of (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in center sp for center inc, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, 3 dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Pattern row: Count turning ch as first dc. Work 2 more dc in first dc for an inc shell. (Ch 1, 3 dc) in each sp to center sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in center sp for center inc, (ch 1, 3 dc) in each sp to end, ch 1, 3 dc in top of turning ch for inc, ch 3, turn.

Repeat Row 4 for pattern, working until the piece measures about 26 inches from start, measuring through center from neck to point. Fasten off.

Straight edge border: Attach yarn at corner of straight neck edge, ch 1, sc evenly across straight edge keeping work flat. Fasten off.

the one that i'm making is really looking to be a beautiful shawl, even with the poozle yarn i'm using. (i know many people will scream when they hear i'm using red heart super saver yarn, but to be honest it's kind of an experiment- i'm going to wash it in shampoo afterward to see if it really does make it soft and awesome.)

cheers, everyone.

Simple Tam Pattern

Tams are stylish and preferable for people with locks and without. Tam patterns abound across the internet, and I have tried several of them without getting the results that I want. This is a simple pattern for a pretty tam big enough to hold hair and cover ears. It is NOT a pattern for an enormous tam and a lot of locks (although I will tell you how to increase the size in the pattern, should you want to.) This is my first time writing a pattern, so if something is confusing or just plain wrong for you, please let me know. Thanks!

Tofu Cutie's Basic Tam

Supplies needed:
Worsted, medium or bulky weight yarn
J hook (for worsted or medium) or K hook (for bulky)
Scissors!

Note: This pattern can be worked in a spiral if you prefer, but is written for the last dc in a row to attach to the first with a slip stitch. The first ch-3 always acts as a stitch- so, for example, in the first row, where 12 dc are needed in the first stitch, the first ch-3 acts as a stitch and only 11 more need to be made.

Rows
1. Ch 3. Dc in 4th ch from hook. Dc 10 more around for a total of 12 dc. (12)
2. Ch 3. Dc in same stitch (2dc). *2dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (24)
3. Ch 3. Dc in same stitch (2dc). *Dc in next stitch. 2dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (36)
4. Ch 3. Dc in same stitch (2dc). *Dc in next 2 stitches. 2dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (48)
5. Ch 3. Dc in same stitch (2dc). *Dc in next 3 stitches. 2dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (60)
6. Ch 3. Dc in same stitch (2dc). *Dc in next 3 stitches. 2dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (75)

If you need your hat to be very big, you can continue as many rows as you like with this pattern:

Ch 3. Dc in same stitch (2dc). *Dc in next 6 stitches. 2dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around.

Otherwise, continue:
7. Ch 3. *Dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (75)
8. Ch 3. *Dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (75)
9. Ch 3. *Dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (75)
10. Ch 3. *Dc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (75)

You can continue this for as long as you like to make the hat long (like a sack.)

11. Ch 2. *Sc in next stitch. Sc dec over next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around. (50)
12. Ch 2. *Sc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (50)
13. Ch 2. *Sc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (50)
14. Ch 2. *Sc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (50)
15. Ch 2. *Sc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (50)
16. Ch 2. *Sc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (50)